Fun at LA Quarter Horse

Another Great Show Season

2010-12-02T15:23:00.005-05:00

We would like to congratulate all of our show team for a very successful year. Your hard work paid off with many championships and reserve champion-ships added to the LA Quarter Horse wall of winners. The year end final standings can be seen at NPHA .
The 2010 show team included:
Gianna Caputo, Mariah Martzen, Olivia Counterman, Nicole Meier, Janelle Decker, Justin Decker, Kami Frindt, Megan Merritt, Carly Hein and Hailey Hein

Congratulations to our riders

2010-03-23T11:06:00.005-04:00

Everyone at LA Quarter Horse Farm would like to extend our congratulations to two of my hunt seat riders and their wonderful horses for their stellar rides during the Birchtown Winter Horse Show Series. Their hard work and dedication showed when they secured a overall highpoint championship and a Reserve High Point Championship.
Congratulations Olivia and Nicks Black Smoke - Highpoint Champion Easy Hunter & Top 3 Hopeful Hunter
Congratulations to Nicole Meier and Blue Steel - Reserve Highpoint Champion Long Stirrup

A quick discussion about Spring Shots and the AAEP Guidelines for Vaccination of Horses

2010-02-22T14:49:00.003-05:00

The horse has an excellent immune system, on par with any other species. However, when nose-to-nose with a new pathogen (virus or bacteria), the horse's body has no defenses lined up. Without immunity, the horse will succumb to the full range of symptoms. Routine vaccination should be part of a comprehensive preventative medicine program for all horses. The objectives of vaccination can be listed into three categories:

Disease Prevention

Reducing the severity of disease

Minimizing the extent to which horses can spread the disease

How Vaccines Work

Vaccines give your horse a specific immune response. A specific defense is one that recognizes and promptly destroys the invader. An initial vaccination alerts specific components of the horse's immune system, which leads to a much more rapid and effective response to the second exposure (booster) to the vaccine. After vaccination, the concentration of antibodies "titer" eventually diminishes. Usually this takes 2 to 6 months or longer after several boosters. Boosters are generally given one time per year. However, horses that travel frequently should be boosted more often, for example every 3 months.

Please click on the following link to view for a wonderful chart that outlines the AAEP (American Association of Equine Practitioners) vaccination guidelines

http://www.dclahdvm.com/articles/vaccination.htm

A lot of snow and a great show

2010-02-17T11:42:00.003-05:00

All of us at LA Quarter Horse Farm would like to extend our deepest condolences to The Daniels. Their loving husband and father passed away last week. Your family will be in our thoughts and prayers.

We have been blanketed by snow, a total of about 10 inches this past week. It is very pretty but I know that I am more interested in seeing green grass and sunshine. All of the ponies loved it though and had alot of fun making horsie snow angels. Cindy got some great pictures of them on her cell that I will try to post once we figure out how to get them from the phone to the computer.

All of the lesson students have been working hard preparing for the upcoming season. They are all looking great. It is going to be another wonderful season with great horses, great students and great friends.

Nicole and Olivia had a great show this past weekend at Birchtown with Nick and Blue. It is so nice to have such wonderful kids and horses to work with. Nicole had great rides on Blue and moved up in total points from 4th to the reserve champion spot.She rode so soft and looked like she was enjoying every moment of it. She also jumped around the bigger stuff in schooling and enjoyed every minute of it as did Blue. He loves to jump and is great at his job. Olivia is holding her own in the Easy hunter division and is currently at the top in points. She had some wonderful trips this weekend complete with flying changes:) Nick has decided that he can absolutly jump the bigger stuff so we put them in the bigger fence division and they went Reserve against some super tough competition putting them in the top three for season end points. He is loving every minute of it.

I am off to get some chores done, but I will be sure to update again soon. Hope everyone has a wonderful week.

6 more weeks of winter....and lots to report:)

2010-02-02T23:41:00.003-05:00

I guess that I should come out of hibernation and start blogging again. lol We have alot to report, first we would like to welcome our new boarders that have joined our happy barn family since my last report, Dreamer, Abby, Blue and Steve:) Dreamer is a cute paint gelding and his "sister" is Abby. They have both settled in and are doing very well, Abby and her kiddo Mariah will be part of our show team as well this year, boy can that mare move:) Blue is the grey gelding that both Liv and Nicole now own and is a wonderful boy who is a phenominal jumper. Steve is a lovely chestnut gelding who is very loved by little Katie and the rest of her family. They are going to be on the show team as well this year and he's got a jog that will be tuff to beat. All of our show team from last season will be competing with us and with all of the new additions we will be having a very busy...ie: super fun show season. I can't wait

Also, there is a new kitty at the barn that someone dropped off. Decker, many of you know his as our fluffy barn mamager, has adopted the kitty so it will be joing the family as well. The old dump truck has died and went to truck heaven and was replaced this week by a very spiffy dump trailer.

Everyone is doing well and spring is right around the corner. Can't wait to hear the birds chirping and see the sun shining and to be happy to read the thermometer because it is reading above freezing. Have a great night and thank you for peeking in on our little piece on the internet ~

It's a Wonderful Life at LA Quarter Horse Farm

2009-12-31T03:30:00.003-05:00

I cannot believe that 2009 is almost over. It has been a great and memorable year at LA Quarter Horse Farm, with both Katie and Cindy's students doing very well in all of their respected divisions as well as in 4-H. It is wonderful to see such dedicated and enthusiastic students who embrace our sport and each other.
In addition to everyone's horse showing success, we have enjoyed a lot of additions to our every growing "stable" family that we are very happy to have around, both 2 legged and 4 legged.
We are very fortunate to have such a wonderful extended family. We are truly blessed.
I would like to ask everyone to post a few of their favorite photo's and share some of your favorite times spent at the barn his year on this thread so that we can all remember what a great year we have all had. Thank you

Euine Lameness:Overview

2009-10-12T23:07:00.002-04:00

With our Saddle Club topic being Equine first aid, I felt it important to shed light on an important topic that at one point or another we, as horseman, will all have to deal with - lameness. Below is a link to a PDF from the horse resource called Lameness along with the link to a very informative video discussing the topic. Good stuff. Enjoy

Video link: http://www.thehorse.com/Video.aspx?vID=286

PDF link: http://www.thehorse.com/pdf/factsheets/lameness/lameness.pdf

Finally an Update..I know, I know a long time coming.lol

2009-10-12T22:40:00.004-04:00

Well the NPHA show season has come to a close and it has been a very successful season for everyone involved. I will post final year end standings once the point totals are finalized, but it is safe to say that we are going to collectively be taking home many year end awards. All of our 4-H kids did great this year as well.
A new semester of Saddle Club has just started, with the topic being Equine First Aid. If anyone needs a copy of the TPR Sheet email me and I'll get it right out to you. The next meeting is going to be October 31 at 11:00 am. This is also going to be the b-day party for Meg Keating and Chad.Gigi just turned 18 on saturday, so wish her a great one. We love you Gigi.
We would like to extend a very warm welcome to Liv, Shelly and Nic. We hope that you are settling in well. Don't forget to make an avatar and blog along with us all.
Gracie left for a new home and Nicole found a very adorable Huck to fill her stall. He is a chestnut Welch./QH cross who loves to beg peppermints from me, since he lives next to Louie, I can't just say no:) He seems to have settled in quite well.
Talk to you all soon, Don't forget to blog now that things are quieting down a bit

Lots of Horse Show News to Share

2009-07-21T18:53:00.003-04:00

Well we have all had a few more wonderful shows. Everyone is just trying their hearts out this year and it is sure showing. Gigi and Jessie are still topping their division with Carley and Peppy holding the reserve spot. Hayley is doing very well in 12 and under and Meg came out all smiles this past weekend with a well earned blue. Katelyn had a great time showing in her division and I was very proud of her accomplishments. Nicole is doing very well with the over fence work and the Weeg seems to be loving it. Weeg and Nicole also went reserve in their western division. Gracie and Nicole won the Halter Mares. Chad and Louie went grand in halter and in their under saddle division. Everyone is surely doing great this year.

This weekend we are not showing, just prepping for the following weekend. We have the 4-H County Horseshow of Saturday, Aug 1st and then a home show on Sunday. It will be a long weekend but it is always worth all of the work.

Another Amazing show for LA Quarter Horse

2009-06-13T20:49:00.004-04:00

Today was a great day. Everyone went Champion or Reserve in their classes today at Birchtown Stables. Chad and Louie went champion in halter and Janelle and Diesel went reserve in halter. Gianna went champion in the beginner western division with all firsts and Nicole went Champion in Sr. English Rider Division. Janelle also grabbed the title for Superior Western Pleasure Horse.
The time that everyone is dedicating to their horsemanship is really showing. We are so proud of everyone. Great job guys. Here are a few pics. I will put up Janelle pics and Chad pics as soon as I can resize them :)

Another great show this season

2009-06-07T23:51:00.009-04:00

Saturday was another great show day for the LA Quarter Horse gang. The students and horses made Cindy and I proud. Chad and Louie had a great day, winning their halter and showmanship class. Gianna had a great day, winning her showmanship and horsemanship classes and taking home her first ever grand championship. Gigi and Jessie had such a nice showmanship pattern in their division that the judge asked them to demonstrate it again for the rest of the class. That is such a huge complement, especially coming from such a distinguished judge. Way to go Gigi, or should I say Token. lol Janelle had a great showmanship pattern and had some very nice rides on Diesel. They Took home ribbons in some very tough classes. Meg also had a great day, taking home ribbons in all of her classes as well. She had a great ride in the trail portion of her division.
We have such a great show team this year. Everyone is stepping it up in the show ring and in the prep area, giving 110%. I am so proud of the parents, who are holding their own on these very long hot days.
On the home front, everything is going well. There is a new training horse in for a few weeks, Mighty, and he is so very cute. He is working well and will be a great mount for his family. The babies are growing like weeds, I can't believe that Jeffery is almost 3 months old now and Suede is pushing 2 months. Jeffery is completely weaned off of the liquid milk replacer and is happily eating pelleted replacer and mare and foal feed.
Here are some photos of the show.

Great show on Saturday

2009-06-01T20:56:00.009-04:00

Sorry for the long delay in posts, but we've been so busy at the barn. Here are our updates.
We kicked off the 2009 western show season with a bang. Everyone competed very well adn we all had a blast. Chad and Louie went Champ, Gigi went Reserve, Nicole went Reserve and Meg won her showmanship class. Hayley had a great day too. She and Willie worked great together in the ring and pinned well. It was wonderful having everyone work together and have a no stress kind of day.
This friday well be prepping for the next western show. We'll be heading to Dallas. This show promises to be fun as well. Everyone is ready and can't wait to head out Saturday morning.
All of the 4-H kids got their paperwork turned in. We have quite a group this year. We even have 2 production babies. How exciting.
Some pics from the show

The importance of Hoof Care

2009-05-14T21:09:00.004-04:00

Healthy hooves are literally the foundation for everything you want to enjoy with your horse. Hoof care isn't time-consuming; it's just a matter of building healthy-hoof practices into your daily management.

1. Pick out your horse's feet. This may sound pretty basic, but it's the single most important thing you can do for his hooves--and I encounter a surprising number of owners who think picking out the feet is the farrier's job. Your horse gets a head start on healthy hooves, and (as I'll explain) you get a chance to take early action on many common hoof problems, if you pick out his feet...

before each ride, to remove any stones or small objects lodged in his feet before you add your weight to the situation, and to check on the condition of his shoes (more on that soon)
after you untack him, in case something has gotten stuck in his feet during the ride
when you bring him in at night, to check for objects in his feet, or for turnout injuries
before turnout the next morning, to check for heat and pulse (see below), remove manure, and check for signs of thrush (more details on that below).

Each time you clean your horse's hooves, take an extra couple of minutes after you've pried out any packed debris to gently clear the crevice of the frog, and scrape any remaining bits of matter off the sole, with the tip of the pick. You want to be able to see the sole's entire surface, so finish the job with a stiff brush. Some hoof picks come with brush attached, or you can buy a brush separately and inexpensively.

2. Establish what's normal. While handling your horse's feet to pick them out, notice their temperature; when everything's OK, they'll feel very slightly warm (more soon on what the variations can mean). Take a moment to locate the digital pulse with two fingers pressed against the back of his pastern; you're interested not in the rate of the pulse, but in its strength under normal conditions. Check the frog, which has about the texture and firmness of a new rubber eraser when it's healthy. Don't be alarmed, though, if everything else looks OK but the frog appears to be peeling off--most horses shed the frog at least twice a year, sometimes more often. Your farrier's regular trimming of the frog may have prevented you from noticing this natural process before.

3. When picking out the feet, look for signs of...

Thrush. The first clue to this bacterial condition (usually caused by prolonged standing in manure, mud, or other wet conditions, or even by prolonged use of pads) is a foul smell and dark ooze from the cleft of the frog. Later, the frog becomes cheesy in texture. Although thrush can eventually cause lameness and significant hoof damage, its early stage is simple to treat. Use an over-the-counter remedy recommended by your farrier or veterinarian--follow directions carefully--and make sure your horse's stall is clean and dry. If you normally bed with straw, consider a change to much more absorbent shavings. Some horses--especially those with upright, narrow feet with deep clefts that tend to trap more dirt, debris, and manure--are predisposed to thrush even when well cared for. If you think your horse has an early case, ask your farrier to check.
Puncture. If a nail or other object pierces your horse's sole and then falls out, the entry wound will probably be invisible by the time you pick his feet and you'll be unaware of it until it causes an abscess (below). But in some cases the object remains in place, to be discovered when you brush the last bits of dirt from the sole. DON'T PULL IT OUT. Put your horse in his stall (protect the punctured foot, and help the foreign object stay put, with wrapping and duct tape, or with a slip-on medication boot), and call your veterinarian right away. An X-ray of the foot can show how far the object has penetrated and which structures are involved. (If you pick your horse's feet out regularly, you'll find the problem within a few hours of its occurrence.) Then your veterinarian can remove the object and advise a course of treatment.
Cracks. Some cracks are superficial; others can worsen, involving sensitive hoof structures, without appropriate shoeing. (One cause of a crack is a hoof abscess--see below--which breaks out through the coronet band at the top of the hoof, creating a weak spot in the hoof wall that must be attended to as it grows out.) If you notice a crack in your horse's hoof, call your farrier and describe its location and size so he can decide whether it needs attention now or can wait until the next regular shoeing.
Abscess. If your horse's digital pulse feels stronger than usual and/or is foot is warmer than normal to the touch, the cause could be an abscess inside the hoof from a badly placed shoeing nail, a bruise, or an overlooked sole puncture. Your routine check can alert you to the problem and get your veterinarian or farrier involved before your horse--probably at least slightly lame already on the abscessed foot, which throbs from the pressure of increased blood flow to the infected area--is in even greater pain. (If you find increased heat and a stronger-than-usual digital pulse in both front feet, and if he's shifting uncomfortably from foot to foot, call your veterinarian immediately. These are signs of laminitis, an inflammatory condition that can cause severe hoof damage--and, if not treated promptly, can even be fatal. For more informatin of laminitis, please read the prior blog post)

4. Schedule regular farrier visits according to your horse's individual needs. Although six to eight weeks is the average, there's really no standard interval for trimming and shoeing. If your farrier is correcting for a problem such as under-run heels, a club foot, or flare in the hoof wall, your horse may benefit from a shorter interval. If everything looks fine but you notice that he begins forging--striking the back of a front hoof with the toe of a back hoof (you'll hear a metallic sound)--in the last few days before his next shoeing, ask your farrier whether a shorter schedule might avoid the problem--possibly four to five weeks in the summer, slightly longer in the winter.

5. If your horse is shod, check his shoes each time you pick out his feet.
Look for:

Risen clinches. The ends of the nails your farrier trimmed and clinched (bent flush with the outer hoof wall) at his last shoeing are now sticking out from the hoof. This is a sign the shoe is loosening, probably because it's been in place for several weeks; he can injure himself if the risen clinches on one foot brush the inside of the other leg.
A sprung or shifted shoe. When, instead of sitting flat on your horse's hoof, the shoe is pulled away and perhaps even bent, it's sprung. If it's moved to one side or the other, it's shifted. In either case, the nails in the problem shoe can press on sensitive hoof structures when he places weight on the foot.

6. Learn how to remove a shoe--yes, you! Don't worry, I have attached directions and pictures. If you can remove a sprung or shifted shoe, you may save your horse unnecessary pain and hoof damage and make life easier for your farrier or veterinarian.

What You'll Need to Pull a Shoe

Gloves to protect your hands (optional).
Either a low-slung hoof boot, or materials to make a hoof slipper (see right). These will protect the hoof from chipping.
Clinch cutters; hammer and show pullers.

How To Do It

Step 1. Straighten the nail ends so they'll pull through the hoof without damaging it. Place the narrow, tomahawk-like blade of the clinch cutter against the bend in the clinches. Bend them open, or straight, by tapping on the cutter with the hammer. Or, cut clinches off as shown.
Step 2. Pick up your horse's hoof. If you can get a grip on them, pull the nail heads out with the shoe pullers. Odds are, though, that you'll be able to get some of the nails, but not all of them. That's okay'get the ones you can. (Be sure to discard the nails in a safe place, where they won't be stepped on.)

Step 3. Loosen the shoe heels by slipping the shoe puller's jaws between the shoe and the buttress of the hoof's heel. Push the tool's handle inward, toward the center of the sole. (It's important that you resist the urge to pry outward'this could rip off a substantial chunk of the hoof wall.)

Step 4. After you've loosened both heels, pry the shoe's toe loose in the same manner, by pulling the handle of the shoe pullers inward, toward the center of the sole.
Step 5. Repeat this motion wherever the shoe is still nailed, until it comes off. If any nails remain in the hoof wall, pull them out with the shoe pullers.

Step 6. Remove the shoe.
Step 7. Apply the hoof boot, or make a hoof slipper: Center the padding over the sole, bringing the edges up around the hoof wall. Secure it there with the elastic bandage; cover the bandage with strips of duct tape to keep the hoof edges from wearing through.
Step 8. Confine your horse and schedule a farrier visit today.

7. Help your horse grow the best possible hooves. Some horses naturally have better hooves than others. Your horse may already be producing the best hoof he's capable of, or the following steps may enable him to do better.

Fine-tune his diet.
Add a biotin supplement to his ration. Some hooves benefit from these supplements; others show little change. Plan to use the supplement for six months to a year; that's how long it takes any benefits to show up in new hoof growth.
Give him consistent exercise. Work on good surfaces, especially at walk and trot, increases circulation to your horse's hooves and promotes growth.

8. Avoid the "summer cycle" of alternate soaking and drying of hooves. Your horse's hooves can adapt well over time to conditions that are consistently dry or consistently damp, but hooves suffer when the environment fluctuates between wet and dry. Unfortunately, this is often the situation during the very months when you want to use him the most: late spring, summer, and early fall. Evening turnout--a summer strategy to avoid biting insects--puts hooves in prolonged contact with dew-soaked grass; they swell and soften with moisture, much as your fingernails soften after hours in water. Back in a dry, hot environment during the day, the hooves dry and contract. With repetition of this cycle, horseshoe nails loosen as their holes through the hoof wall enlarge slightly. Such summer activities as work, stomping flies, or (if your horse is restless) walking the fence accelerate the loosening; pretty soon you're asking your farrier, "Why can't my horse keep his shoes on?"

There are a couple of things you can do to minimize this pattern:

Cut back on summer turnout time. Try to reduce by a few hours the time your horse spends standing in a dewy nighttime paddock or stomping flies outside during the day.
Reduce moisture absorption by applying Tuff Stuff® to the lower two-thirds of his hooves before evening turnout. (But pass up conditioners that leave the hoof feeling oily; they can actually soften hoof wall if used frequently, and if applied before your farrier's visit, they make hooves harder for him to work on.)
Avoid unnecessary baths. Sponging the sweat off your horse after schooling works just as well, without causing him to stand in a puddle for half an hour or more. Save the full-scale bath for just before the show.
Shorten his summer shoeing schedule. A lost shoe often means hoof damage, which escalates the cycle of summer shoeing problems. Spacing your farrier's regular visits a week or so closer may avoid emergency calls.
Toughen his soles with a daily application of Venice turpentine.

9. Try not to turn out in deep, muddy footing. Hours of standing in mud may encourage thrush or scratches (a skin infection in the fetlock area that can cause lameness). Mud is hard on shoes, too: The suction of deep mud can drag off a shoe already loosened by alternating wet and dry conditions. Mud also makes picking up his feet a harder job; if your horse is slow about getting his front feet out of the way, he may end up pulling off the heels of his front shoes because he's stepping on them with his back toes.

10. Protect your horse's hooves during hauling. Without covering for his heels, he can easily step on the edge of a shoe and pull it partially loose--then spend the remainder of the journey standing on the nails of the sprung or shifted shoe. Another vulnerable area is the coronet band: the rim of tissue at the top of each hoof that generates new hoof-wall growth. Injury to this area (for instance, if he steps on himself while struggling to keep his balance in a moving trailer) can interrupt hoof growth in the area below the affected spot. The solution: Either old-fashioned shipping bandages and bell boots (large enough to cover the bulbs of your horse's heels and the backs of his shoes) or good quality full-coverage Velcro-fastened shipping boots reduce the likelihood of these problems.

Busy, Busy, Busy

2009-05-04T01:30:00.006-04:00

This week was a great week for everyone. Gigi purchased a very nice new show saddle for Jessie. Suede turned 1 week old and is huge. Rex turned 5 weeks old and started eating a little bit of grain and milk replacer pellets. Weegie and Nicole successfully tackled their first big oxer. Chad rode Louie. Katelyn and Meg's mom decided that it is time to start shopping for a hunter pony. Everyone had great rides this week as well. The show string is pretty much settled and the saddle club got logo shirts. The 4-H Club will have a meeting on May 16th and will be getting shirts too.
All of the horses are looking slick and very shiny, kudos to all of you on your grooming skills. Everybody had baths over the weekend too.

Baby Pictures

2009-04-26T23:06:00.007-04:00

Here they are. Pics of Suede and The Little Monster, aka Rex, aka Happy:) They are both doing great. Growing like weeds and acting like boys. Suede is already starting to make him mom crazy and Rex is constantly awaiting delivery from the magical milk bucket. lol Hard to believe that Rex aka Happy is a month old now. Amazing how quick the foals grow up. He is doing very well in his lessons and is very smart. Had his first trim on Wednesday and was wonderful. Hope you enjoy the pics.

It's a .....

2009-04-22T21:33:00.003-04:00

Bouncing Baby Boy. Born April 22, 2009. Congrats to Velvet and family on the arrival of your very very nice buckskin colt with an arrow shaped star. He is huge and very correct. Happy birthday baby. Velvet is a great mom and is already getting her figure back.

I'll post more tomorrow, I'm off to bed. It was a great but very long day.

Killing with Kindness

2009-04-20T20:22:00.003-04:00

April showers bring May founders ? Grass Founder is a well known spring time nemesis, but many horse owners are not aware that there are many potential causes of founder. Laminitis or Founder is a painful disease which affects the horse's feet. What's especially alarming is that many cases are preventable. It is imperative for owners to understand that it is possible to kill our horses with kindness. Avoid the desire to let your horse graze for another hour on new spring grass to make them happy or the desire to feed that extra scoop of feed because Trigger whinnied when you walked into the barn.

Consider that a common cause of laminitis is overfeeding -- a management factor that is normally within our control. By learning more about laminitis, its causes, signs and treatments, you may be able to minimize the risks of laminitis in your horse, or control the long-term damage if it does occur.

LAMINITIS DEFINED

Laminitis results from the disruption (constant, intermittent, or short-term) of blood flow to the sensitive and insensitive laminae. These laminae structures within the foot secure the coffin bone (the wedge-shaped bone within the foot) to the hoof wall. Inflammation often permanently weakens the laminae and interferes with the wall/bone bond. In severe cases, the bone and the hoof wall can separate. In these situations, the coffin bone may rotate within the foot, be displaced downward ("sink") and eventually penetrate the sole. Laminitis can affect one or all feet, but it is most often seen in the front feet concurrently.

The terms "laminitis" and "founder" are used interchangeably. However, founder usually refers to a chronic (long-term) condition associated with rotation of the coffin bone. Whereas, acute laminitis refers to symptoms associated with a sudden initial attack, including pain and inflammation of the laminae.

CAUSES

While the exact mechanisms by which the feet are damaged remain a mystery, certain precipitating events can produce laminitis. Although laminitis occurs in the feet, the underlying cause is often a disturbance elsewhere in the horse's body. The causes vary and may include the following:

Digestive upsets due to grain overload or abrupt changes in diet
Sudden access to excessive amounts of lush forage before the horse's system has had time to adapt; this type of laminitis is known as "grass founder"
Toxins released within the horse's system
High fever or illness; any illness that causes high fever or serious metabolic disturbances has the potential to cause laminitis, e.g., Potomac Horse Fever
Severe colic
Retained placenta in the mare after foaling
Stressed or overheated horse
Excessive concussion to the feet, often referred to as "road founder"
Excessive weight bearing on one leg due to injury of another leg or any other alteration of the normal gait
Various primary foot diseases
Bedding that contains black walnut shavings
Prolonged use or high doses of corticosteroids

RISK FACTORS

Factors that seem to increase a horse's susceptibility to laminitis or increase the severity of the condition when it does occur include the following:
Heavy breeds, such as draft horses
Overweight or horses prone to be "easy keepers" with thick cresty necks and fat pads over the tail head.
High nutritional plane
Ponies
Unrestricted grain binges, such as when a horse breaks into the feed room (If this happens, do not wait until symptoms develop to call your veterinarian. Call immediately so corrective action can be taken before tissue damage progresses.)
Horses who have had previous episodes of laminitis

SIGNS

Signs of acute laminitis include the following:

Lameness, especially when a horse is turning in circles
Heat in the feet
Increased digital pulse in the feet
Pain in the toe region when pressure is applied with hoof testers
Reluctant or hesitant gait ("walking on eggshells")
A "sawhorse stance," with the front feet stretched out in front to alleviate pressure on the toes and the hind feet "camped out" or positioned further back than normal to bear more weight.

Signs of chronic laminitis may include the following:

Rings in hoof wall that become wider as they are followed from toe to heel
Bruised soles or "stone bruises"
Widened white line, commonly called "seedy toe," with occurrence of seromas (blood pockets) and/or abscesses
Dropped soles or flat feet
Dished hooves, which are the result of unequal rates of hoof growth (The heels grow at a faster rate than the rest of the hoof, resulting in an "Aladdin-slipper" appearance.)

TREATMENT

The sooner treatment begins, the better the chance for recovery. Treatment will depend on specific circumstances but may include the following:

Diagnosing and treating the primary problem (Laminitis is often due to a systemic or general problem elsewhere in the horse's body.)
Dietary restrictions
Treating with mineral oil, via a nasogastric tube, to purge the horse's digestive tract, especially if the horse has overeaten
Administering fluids if the horse is ill or dehydrated
Administering other drugs, such as antibiotics to fight infection; antiinflammitory drugs, such as Banamine, to reduce inflammation; anti-endotoxins to reduce bacterial toxicity; anticoagulants and vasodilators to reduce blood pressure while improving blood flow to the feet (Corticosteroids are contraindicated in laminitis, as they can actually cause laminitis or exacerbate existing cases.)
Stabling the horse on soft ground, such as in sand or shavings (not black walnut), and encouraging the horse to lie down to reduce pressure on the weakened laminae
Opening and draining any abscesses which may develop
Cooperation between your veterinarian and the farrier (Techniques that may be helpful include corrective trimming, frog supports, and therapeutic shoes or pads.)

LONG-TERM OUTLOOK

Many horses that develop laminitis, make uneventful recoveries and go on to lead long, useful lives. Unfortunately, others suffer such severe, irreparable damage that they are, for humane reasons, euthanized.

Your equine practitioner can provide you with information about your horse's condition based on radiographs (x-rays) and the animal's response to treatment. Radiographs will show how much rotation of the coffin bone has occurred. This will help you make a decision in the best interest of the horse and help the farrier with the therapeutic shoeing.

MANAGEMENT

Importantly, once a horse has had laminitis, it may be likely to recur. In fact, a number of cases become chronic because the coffin bone has rotated within the foot and because the laminae never regain their original strength. There may also be interference with normal blood flow to the feet, as well as metabolic changes within the horse. Extra care is recommended for any horse that has had laminitis, including:

A modified diet that provides adequate nutrition based on high-quality forage and without excess energy, especially from grain
Routine hoof care, including regular trimming and, in some cases therapeutic shoeing (Additional radiographs may be needed to monitor progress.)
A good health-maintenance schedule, including parasite control and vaccinations to reduce the horse's susceptibility to illness or disease
Possibly a nutritional supplement formulated to promote hoof health

SUMMARY

The best way to deal with laminitis is preventing the causes under your control. Keep all grain stored securely out of the reach of horses. Introduce your horse to lush pasture gradually. Be aware that when a horse is ill, under stress or overweight, it is especially at risk. Consult your equine practitioner to formulate a good dietary plan. Provide good, routine health and hoof care. If you suspect laminitis, consider it a medical emergency: Notify your veterinarian immediately.

Reference:

"Bayer Equine Connection, Laminitis." Bayer Healthcare: Animal Health Division.20 April 2009.
.

Overcoming Fears

2009-04-14T18:10:00.002-04:00

Anyone who has ridden for any length of time would be dishonest if they told you they have never felt fear. If you have any common sense at all, you should have a certain level of “healthy fear” whenever you get on a new horse. Call it “respect” if you prefer, but there is always an awareness that the 1000-pounds or so of bone and muscle you are sitting on is, physically, more powerful than you are.

Horses can jump sideways in the blink of an eye, rear, buck, or reach speeds over 25 miles per hour in a matter of seconds. They are also capable of using that physical power to perform incredible athletic feats like jumping, dressage, cutting, or reining. Our desire to become partners with our horses in those athletic endeavors makes us willing to take the risk of being thrown off or finding ourselves on a panicked runaway.

A bad experience, usually something that could not have been avoided no matter what the rider did, can turn healthy respect to fear. Once a rider has been physically hurt in an accident or even just really frightened it can take a while to rebuild confidence. The old rough-and-ready, cavalry-style philosophy promised that if you just got right back on again, everything would be fine. However, suppressing fear seldom works. Neither does it help to tell someone to “just get over it.”

Fear is usually related to the rider’s skill level. The best way to overcome riding fears is to work on developing a completely independent seat. An independent seat gives the rider the confidence the he or she has the ability to ride through just about anything the horse might do. Riders also need to develop habits that allow them to stay mentally and emotionally centered in a rhythmic and relaxed way when their horse becomes excited or frightened. One of the partners has to stay calm in order to bring the other back to that state.

It is hard to get past your fear when you work by yourself. Be sure to work with a competent instructor who acknowledges your confidence crisis without either belittling it or catering to it is important. You need someone who understands how to back up and find the point where you are comfortable riding and how to help you work forward again from that point in a logical progression to regain your confidence. Cindy and I have plenty of experience with helping students deal with fear. Don't be afraid to let us know that you are feeling less than confident.

Fear around horses is not limited to riding. Many people feel intimidated when they have to catch, lead or groom an unruly, ill-mannered horse. Here, again, a good instructor should be able to help a fearful student learn how to confidently and safely work around and re-school a spoiled horse with bad ground manners.

Learning how to approach and work with horses on the ground in a rhythmic and relaxed way not only keeps the horses calm, but also teaches the students how to relax and stay calm. Using rhythmic breathing and rhythmic movements while they groom or lead their horses becomes a habit they can carry into their riding. The habit of staying rhythmic with their breathing, their seat, or their reins when things start falling apart helps both rider and horse relax and become calm again more readily.

Every rider must eventually face fear and overcome it. Fear is not something to be ashamed of or to hide. When it happens to you, find an instructor with the right attitude, the right program of progressive skill training, and the right horses to get you back on track again.

What about Horse Show Jitters?

The rider who sits heavier on the horse, whose hands are not as giving, whose legs are clamped on the horse's side, who is leaning too much on the shoulder is communicating a whole different set of aids to that horse. Those subconscious, adverse aids usually will alter the horse's way of going.

Secondly, a horse picks up a rider's fear and may subsequently become nervous himself. The rider who is suddenly tentative when approaching the jump is actually telling the horse to watch out, there is something here to fear.

Where do these fears come from? Why does a rider who performs well at home fall apart in competition?

"A lot of the fear in competition comes from the fear of psychological harm - the fear that we're going to embarrass ourselves or make mistakes that make us look incompetent," says Dr. Janeane Reagan, a clinical psychologist who specializes in equine sports psychology. "In some cases, these fears come from perfectionist thinking; the individual tends to expect a great deal of perfection and can't allow themselves to make mistakes. Other fear sources may be from people around us who have extreme expectations of us."

Reign in Your Fears

Practice makes perfect. Know your sport. Keep working on your skills, improving weak areas. But do not over-train. Marathon sessions can tire or sour the horse. Instead, work a few minutes each day on specific trouble areas. Slow, steady work is best. The more comfortable and confident you are at home, the more likely you'll retain those skills and confidence in the show ring.

Prepare yourself mentally. Use visualization and relaxation techniques to train yourself to be calm and confident in the show ring. It works. At least a week before competition, find a quiet place for 15 minutes each day, close your eyes, breathe deeply from the diaphragm and let your body relax. Imagine how your body, your legs, your hands and your seat should be during the competition. Think about what you'll be asked to do and visualize your performance. Picture yourself remaining calm and triumphing in various trouble situations that could occur. Visualize yourself putting together a confident and successful performance from start to finish.

Erase negative mental images. If, while visualizing your performance, you see yourself losing control, becoming nervous, or flubbing up, "rewind" your mental tape, go back to the point where you were confident and in control, and begin again, making an effort to keep negative images out of your visualization.

Keep proper perspective. While it's easy to get caught up in winning and performing well, in the overall scheme of things, ask yourself how important it is to have a perfect performance. Says Reagan, "Regardless of the outcome of the class or competitive trail ride, the rest of our lives will go on quite well. People will still love us and our dog will still be happy when we come home. Winning is important, but it's not that big in the overall realm of who we are and what we do in our life.

"When you can say, 'So what? I'll get it next time,' you will be more relaxed and confident more likely you will get that correct lead. Look at the sport as a personal challenge and decrease the emphasis on competitive goals."

Recognize your choices. Examine your motives. Are you competing because it's what you want to do or because your family or trainer expects you to and you don't want to disappoint them? Not everyone is cut out for competition. If you feel, deep down, that competitive riding is really not for you, re-evaluate why you are competing and consider devoting your riding time to satisfying non-competitive personal goals.

By examining your competition goals, keeping the right perspective, and working diligently at training yourself mentally as well as physically for the show ring, you can reduce those show ring jitters and get on with putting on a good – and enjoyable – performance.

Caring for Orphaned Foals

2009-04-12T21:54:00.004-04:00

Nursemare foals are foals that are taken from their mother, so that their mother can be used to raise a foal that is not her own. Nursemare foals are orphans in that they do not have a mare to raise them. The most critical time for them is their first month of life. They are at a high risk for illnesses at this time due to the high stress that they must tolerate, ie. being separated from their mother, being shipped repeatedly, etc.
We are taking daily logs of our foal's TPR's (Temperature, Respiration and Pulse Rate) to monitor his health.
Normal parameters for a healthy foal are
Body Temperature:
99 to 102 Degrees F.
Respiratory Rate:
60 - 80 breaths per minute at birth,
30- 40 breaths per minute after 1 hour.
Heart Beat:
60 or more beats per minute at Birth,
80 - 130 beats per minute after 1 hour
80 - 120 beats per minute after 5 days of age (normal).
Orphaned foals are fed replacement milk. Our foal is readily drinking out of a bucket and is fed small amounts frequently.
Orphaned foals also need to be socialized properly. They need regular exercise and handling.

A Very Wonderful Day

2009-04-11T23:39:00.004-04:00

Today was a wonderful day. I would like to thank everyone for my surprise party. I love you all and I really appreciated it. I must say that you where all very good about not spilling the beans as well. I was oblivious to the whole plot. Thank you all again.
We would like to welcome our little orphan foal named Happy. He is a nurse mare foal and will be our saddle club spokes-horse. He is a little bay foal with a star and a snip. He is very cute but is very young. He is only 2.5 weeks old. He is eating milk replacer readily and seems to have settled in very well. He will have company soon, as Velvet should foal in the next week or so.
I'm off to bed early tonight so the blog is short but I will catch up tomorrow and explain a bit about the care of orphaned foals and the nurse mare industry.

Tail Care

2009-04-08T15:35:00.008-04:00

We all want our horses to have beautiful tails for show season. Here are a few pointers to keeping a beautiful tail on your horse. I also included some info regarding tail extensions. If you are looking into extensions, be sure to check with your show associatons rules and be sure to match the tail color and determine the correct type of extension for your needs.

Make sure your horse's nutritional needs are covered. Feeding a complete feed, or adding a multivitamin, can help ensure that your horse has the nutrients he or she needs. Feeding flax seed, or a flax-based supplement, often helps make a horse's mane, tail and coat shinier because they add Omega 3 fatty acids to their diet.
Touch the tail as little as possible. Daily brushing is the last thing you should do.
In fact, put away your combs and brushes! The best way to detangle your horse's tail is by hand, otherwise you risk breaking the fragile hairs. This is especially true when the tail is dry.
Use a conditioner or detangler to help get knots out. You can leave it in the tail for added conditioning.
Keep your horse's dock, sheath or teats clean. If these areas are dirty, they can be itchy. You don't want your horse to rub its tail.
When you ship your horse, put a tail wrap on. Even horses that don't normally rub their tails will sometimes do this when trailered, maybe because they end up leaning on the butt bar. A tail wrap can really save his tail from damage.

For those who need to buy time growing out their horse's tail or would like a fuller look, a tail extension can be applied. Be sure to check your show associations rule regarding the type of extensions that are legal. The step by step instructions below outline the use of a string affixed tail extension. Please remember that there are different types of attachments on tail extensions, so these directions may not apply to the type of tail that you use. You should research the type of tail and attachment that would be best suited to your horse's needs.
Note: Under AQHA rules and regulations, “tails may be lengthened by hair to hair attachment only with no attachments of any kind to the tailbone”.

	1.The morning of the show is when a temporary tail extension should be applied. Depending on your schedule, shampoo and condition your horse’s tail the night before or the morning of the big show. Let the hair dry completely and then brush it out. If needed, use a tail bag to keep your horse’s locks clean until you’re ready to start applying the extension.
	2.To start, grab your horse’s tail just below the tail bone and separate the hair into two layers: a top and bottom layer. Using a rubber band, loosely tie off the top layer to keep it out of the way for now.
	3.In the bottom hair layer, make two small braids just below your horse’s tail bone. Each braid only needs to be about 2 inches long. Secure each braid with a rubber band that matches your horse’s tail hair color. (Rubber bands designed for mane and tail grooming are sold at tack stores.)
	4.Get your tail extension and brush it before weaving it into your horse’s tail.
	5.At the top of the tail extension are two small strings. Take one string and insert it through the middle of one braid (insert through the front of the braid); do the same with the other string and braid. Keep the braids behind the tail extension as you work.
	6.Gently pull on the strings to remove all slack between the braids and the top of the tail extension. Make sure the braids are behind the tail extension, not in front of it.
	7.To begin securing the extension, keep the strings together and wrap them two or three times around both braids. MAKE SURE YOU’RE NOT WRAPPING THE TAIL BONE.
	8.Twist the strings together then wrap one string in the opposite direction a couple of times. Finally, secure the strings in a knot behind the braids. Use a secure knot, but one that unties easily.
	9.Stand back and check your work. The extension should hang nicely and should be an appropriate length based on the class you’re showing in.
	10.Once you’re satisfied, untie the top layer of hair and gently brush it out.
	11.The top of the tail extension should not be visible under your horse’s natural tail hair.
	12.To help keep the extension tidy in between classes, wrap the top of the extension with Vetwrap. DO NOT WRAP YOUR HORSE’S TAIL BONE.
	13.To prevent your horse from stepping on her extension in between classes, loosely braid the bottom of the extension and secure it with a rubber band.
	Just before your class remove the wrap and loose braid, then brush the tail out. Now you’re ready for the show arena!

Humm, who is in this video?

2009-04-06T23:52:00.006-04:00

Here is another video. Can you guess who this is? They went Grand the day this video was taken.

I can now post videos. Woo Hoo

2009-04-06T23:36:00.005-04:00

Can you guess who this is? I'll give you all a hint...Very sweet and loves attention, humm not a good hint, that could be any horse at the barn.

Grooming to Win

2009-04-06T22:09:00.005-04:00

With the upcoming show season approaching quickly and the horses shedding readily, it is time to really bump up the daily grooming regiment. A quality shine only comes from consistent and thorough grooming. Here is a grooming outline that is sure to get you and your horse on the road to a wonderful show season coat.

Grooming

1. Invest in quality brushes and keep them clean. You can't do a thorough job grooming your horse with dirty or dusty brushes. Also, keeping them clean will help them last longer.

2. To avoid fungal infections, don't use your brushes on other horses or regularly soak in a bleach solution.

3. Curry your horse every day. The more you curry, the more you bring the oils in the skin to the surface. When it comes to currying, there is no substitute for good old-fashioned elbow grease.

4. Select curries according to the season. Winter curries are actually shedding blades that aid in removing hair as your horse sheds. Summer curries are round rubber brushes that come in a variety of sizes and styles. Choose a small, soft one for the face and a larger one for the body.

5. Brush the hair in the direction the hair grows.

6. Don't neglect your horse's hooves. They should be picked out daily, not just when you are getting ready to ride.

7. Treat your horse's feet to a hoof conditioner or a hoof hardener (depending on your horse's needs) at least once a week to keep his hooves in top form.

8. Know where your horse's ticklish spots are and be extra gentle around those areas.

9. When brushing the mane and tail, start at the ends and work your way up. If you want your horse's mane and tail to grow out, don't comb it every day. Instead, just pick out any tangles, shavings or twigs.

10. Grooming mitts are great for wiping dust off your horse and for applying fly spray.

11. If your horse's mane or tail gets a stubborn knot in it, don't cut or pull the knot out. Use a detangling product to soften the knot, and then carefully detangle the hairs with your fingers.

12. To stimulate growth, brush the dock of your horse's tail daily with a dandy brush. This will loosen and remove the dirt and dander that makes your horse itchy. Brushing the dock and upper part of the tail bone also increases blood flow, which stimulates growth.

Bathing:

1. When bathing your horse, uses soft sponges, as they hold more water.

2. Bathe your horse thoroughly with equine shampoo, working on one section at a time, from the front of the horse to the back, and from the top of the horse to the bottom.

3. When hosing your horse, direct the stream of water from the front to the back so that you don't accidentally squirt him in the face.

4. Place a cooler on a just-bathed horse to reduce the chill.

5. Don't forget to wash underneath his tail and between his back legs.

6. If it's too cold to bathe your horse, sponge off his neck, face, saddle and girth area with warm water to remove any sweat.

7. Clean your gelding's sheath or your mare's udder when needed.

8. To remove the minerals from your horse's coat, use a demineralizeing conditioning product, which is formulated specifically for removing hard water mineral deposits and buildup from your horse's main, tail and coat.

Clipping:

1. If you are going to body clip your horse for a show, do it a week or two before the show. Body clipping makes the coat dull for awhile, and you want to give it time to get its natural shine back.

2. Bathe your horse before you clip him, as dirt in your horse's coat will dull your clipper blades and you won't get a close, even clip.

3. Use clean, sharp clipper blades and make sure your clippers are in good working order to ensure the best results.

4. As you clip, check the blades frequently to make sure they aren't getting hot. If they do heat up, let them cool or spray them with a cooling lubricant.

5. Thoroughly condition your horse's coat and skin after clipping with a conditioning product, as clipping takes all of the oils out of the hair.

6. Be sure to clip your horses ears and whiskers, and boot up the legs the night before the show. Keep a set of clippers on hand the day of the show for a quick touch up.

Showing:

1. If you use oil and highlighter on your horse's face for a show, use is sparingly, and make sure it looks natural and blended. You want to avoid the greasy look.

2. Use baby powder, corn starch or French chalk on white socks to brighten them.

3. Keep cling-free dryer sheets on hand. You can run them through your horse's mane or tail to reduce static electricity.

4. Fill nail holes in your horse's hooves with a spackling compound that matches his hoof color.

5. To polish his feet, use a wax-based shoe polish or a hoof polish product.

6. If you pull your horse's mane, use a pulling comb to make the job easier.

7. Pull your horse's mane after you ride, as the pores will be open, making the hair easier to remove.

8. Use Listerine to desensitize areas to be pulled. Rub a little onto the base of the mane before you begin pulling the hair and when you are finished to ease the itch.

9. Use a bit of baby powder on the inside front of your horse's blanket to help cut down on rubbing.

10. Wipe the inside of your horse's ears with a damp cloth to remove any dirt or debris.

11. To get that sparkling shine, spray a shine enhancing product on your horse's clean coat. Using your hands, slick the hair with quick, light strokes. Let the hair dry for a few seconds and then use a clean, dry towel or soft brush to polish the hair.

12. For a shiny mane and tail, spray a shine spray onto clean hair, let it dry and then use a soft brush to smooth the hair and bring out the shine.

13. For a quick touch-up and to remove any dust, spray a small amount of coat shine product onto a clean towel and wipe down your horse.

14. For a quick clean-up of a dirt or manure stain, use a stain remover.

15. Remember to smile and have a good time! Showing is fun!

Quick Update

2009-04-05T22:08:00.005-04:00

It was a beautiful day today. The last few days have been very exciting, with the new additions and a touch of spring fever. Velvet, Meg's 4-legged mommy-to-be has settled in very well. She is eating well and is absolutely enormous. She has a "I'm so very pregnant" look to her. She is very sweet and has taken to her new family very well. Louie has also settled in well, he and Chad have absolutely hit it off. I think that it was love at first sight for Chad, and love at first cookie for Louie. lol We will be welcoming another addition in this coming week. I'll update as soon as everything is finalized.

Tonight, one of our students had a great ride on her mare. She was consistent and vigilant in her effort to obtain a perfect bend and she and her horse looked great. The both left the arena all smiles. Chelsea hacked a few of the ponies today and they all worked beautifully.

We have been getting a new bedding mix that is wonderful. Thank you to the bedding man.
Cleaning stalls is as easy as 1-2-3 now. It is like cleaning a kitty litter box, for lack of a better analogy. The wet clumps and does not track. We love you bedding man.
All of the horses are now working outside quietly, the spring yeehaw is over with, they all transitioned from the indoor to the outdoor well, even though they have an audience of 12+ deer and 40+turkeys.lol

The grass is quickly turning a bright green and the trees are looking like they might be thinking about showing their leaves soon. This is my favorite time of the year, everything is so new and bright after a long dreary winter. The robins are out full force as well.

Prepping for Show Season

2009-04-05T21:55:00.005-04:00

Showing your horse can be exciting and exhausting all at the same time. It can be fun and frustrating. Showing is often like a up and down ride of nerves and emotion. Whether you are a seasoned show competitor or plan on doing your first horse show this year, the following tips should help you enjoy the season.

Preparation starts at home

For a horse to show well, he needs to be healthy and happy. Your horse should have a good diet, regular worming and vaccination schedule.His/Her hoofs should be trimmed regularly and, if you want a good performance in the show ring, there is no substitute for spending lots of time with him/her. That glow of health comes from good feed and lots of grooming.He/She needs your love and wants to please you.Show him/her what you want, tell him/her when he/she does it right and you will be well on your way to a top show performance!

You can not prepare for a show the day before and you should not expect to do anything differently the day of the show than you do when you are practicing or taking lessons. Like any other athletic event you must train and practice for the event to be a success. Your confidence is much easier to acquire when you know you are prepared. Don’t try a new bit, a new saddle, or new technique the day of the show. Be sure that your preparation consists of basic ground manners, tying, and loading into the trailer, not just the showing in the ring.

Show Rules

If you are a seasoned show competitor, check for changes and updates for the new season. If you are new to showing, make sure you know what rules you will be showing under and get a copy of them. There are different rules for different riding disciplines. Understand the different divisions of the competition and make sure you enter the classes that are suited to your riding level. Most reputable shows require proof of a current negative coggins test. You will not be able to sign up for any classes without proof so put it where you can not forget it.

Ring Etiquette

Nothing is more annoying than riders that do not know proper ring etiquette. During the warm-up period in the ring there will likely be a lot of horses going many different directions. Proper ring etiquette consists of always keeping at least one horse length between your horse and any other horse in front, behind, or beside you. Riding too close to another horse can get you or your horse kicked. When ever possible pass a slower horse on the inside of the ring. When approaching another horse head on, call “inside” or “left” to indicate you will move your horse toward the inside of the ring. If there are jumps set up in the center, call “heads up on the”…and name the jump you are approaching. If you are not jumping listen for these calls and be sure not to cross the path of that jump line. Crossing the path of a jumping horse could result in a very serious injury to you and your horse or to the other rider and their horse.

Safety First

Ring etiquette is one important factor in being safe. If the rider of a nervous or misbehaving horse loses control, you want to be as far away from that horse as possible. You must be “on your toes” the entire time you are on the show grounds. You never know when a baby stroller, umbrella, crackling P.A. system or a host of other “scary monsters” will startle your horse. Even if your horse is very quiet, you need to be alert for other horses that may “spook” at such situations.

Making sure your transportation has good tires, proper trailer brakes and working lights is sometimes overlooked in our excitement to leave the barn.

If you use a hay net, be sure it is tied up high enough that the horse can not get a foot tangled in it, and make sure it is tied securely enough that it will not come untied as he pulls at it.

Be sure you know how to tie a quick release knot and use it every time you tie your horse. At the show, your horse should not be tied long enough to graze.

Pack a first aid kit for yourself and your horse.

Bring Help

The biggest job of a helper is to make sure you never have to leave your horse unattended. Helpers are great for closing trailer doors behind your horse as you lead him in, helping with last minute grooming after you have your show clothes on, helping you keep track of time, and providing moral support.

Leave your ego at home

Easier said than done! Once you enter the show grounds you are in the hands of lady luck. You have little control over many of the situations you will be placed in during the day. There will most likely be many riders and horses of equal or better riding levels. You may or may not agree with the judge’s decisions. If you are going to enjoy showing, you must acquire an attitude that will allow you to “roll with the punches.”

Show grounds are high tension arenas for everyone. If you have done the best job you could do in a particular class, given the circumstances that occurred in that class (for example you got cut off, your horse spooked, or you were just too nervous to check your diagonal) you should feel proud and calmly say, “I did my best”.

Parents: Prepare for possible meltdowns

Nerves are something we can not just leave behind. In an attempt to control them they often reappear disguised as surly attitudes, misplaced anger, or dramatized emotions. Often the physical and mental strain of the day will leave competitors behaving like two year old children in desperate need of a nap (this can happen to adult competitors too).Try to give your child the support, but also the space he/she needs. Good luck, it is a difficult job.

Manage your time

The only time you enjoy getting out of bed before the sun rises is on a show day. Nothing will make you feel more overwhelmed than running late. That anxiousness will be picked up by your horse immediately. Getting to the barn early gives you some time for grooming, checking your packing list and the ability to be patient while loading your horse in the trailer(if your horse isn’t stalled at the show grounds already). Getting to the show grounds early allows you to do last minute grooming and time with your horse before the show.Also to get registered for your classes and have warm up time.

Don’t warm your horse up for so long that he is too tired to perform well in his/her classes. How much time your horse will need depends on his/her temperament and the level of athletic ability you will be asking of him/her. In general, try to be on your horse about fifteeen to twenty minutes before you have to go in the ring. Dismount and give your horse a break in between classes.

Take time to rest and let your horse chill out at the trailer/stall with some hay and water. Give yourself time to relax, socialize and eat. If your stomach feels full of butterflies, try to eat a little bit several times during the day. Many riders have gotten a pounding headache, or even passed out in the ring because they did not eat anything all day.

Show Day Check Lists

Organization is key to ensuring that you do not leave anything behind that you will need on show day. Remember to pack early, as nothing accentuates stress more than being late. e like to pack the night before, and I keep all of my show items packed in separate bags and totes for easy packing. Here are some check lists to help everyone remember what to pack.

Horse Show Checklist

Follow this checklist to ensure you have everything you need.

Paperwork:

Map to showgrounds
Show information
Rulebook
Membership cards
Horse registration
Health certificate, coggins, other required veterinary information
Emergency telephone numbers
Checkbook/wallet/I.D.
Veterinarian phone number

For Travel:

Truck and trailer registration
Head bumper
Shipping boots or wraps
Tail bandage
Stable sheet
Leather or breakway halters
Lead ropes
Ties
Jack for trailer
Tail bag/wrap
Spare tire
Jack
Manure fork
Emergency phone numbers in case of breakdown
Trailer first-aid kit
Plenty of stored water for horse(s); buckets

For Grooming:

Fly spray
Buckets
Shampoo / conditioner / detangler
Sweat scraper
Brushes, curries
Hoof pick
Coat polish
Spot remover and/or whitening product
Sponges and rags
Hoof dressing / polish
Grooming tote
Leather cleaner
Cordless clippers (for missed hairs)
Water in a spray bottle
Braiding kit / banding supplies
Scissors
Rain gear, if needed

For You:

Sunblock
Sunglasses
Hat or cap
Comfortable clothes/shoes for after competition
Beverages and snacks
Folding chairs
Aspirin, Band-Aids
Camera
Cell phone
Lint remover
Toiletries
Safety pins and sewing kit
Grooming apron or other cover-up

For Your Horse:

Bridles
Bits
Saddles
Saddle pads
Cinches/girths
Legwear (for warm-up, as well as show-ring--as dictated by your discipline)
Approved martingales or other auxillary tack
Spare stirrups and leathers
Breast plate, as needed
Whip/crop
Longe line and longe whip (optional)
Stud chain (optional)
Halter and lead line, plus a spare
Horse blanket and cooler (optional)
Drinking water and bucket
Hay/haynet, other feed
Equine first-aid kit
Treats
Stall guard and screw eyes (if you’re boarding overnight)

Goal Setting

2009-04-01T00:45:00.003-04:00

With show season approaching fast, I want everyone to start thinking about their goals for this year. The following is an excerpt from Horsemanship and Goals, 2002. I felt that this was an excellent article about goal setting and I hope that you all find it helpful.

What "goals" are we thinking of setting with our training and riding? How do we set about reaching those goals? What do we do about setbacks? What do we do about discouragement from others? What do we do when our horses aren't on the same goal path? (We all know that horses invariably have different paths in mind than we do!)

A simple structure for goal setting looks like this:

1. Find your DESIRE to achieve the goal. The desire must be intense. How do you intensify desire? Sit down and write out all the benefits and advantages of achieving your goal.

2. WRITE your goal down. Once it goes into writing it becomes alive and starts to affect your subconscious.

3. DEADLINE. Figure out where you are now in relation to the goal and then calculate how long you will need to complete the goal in a fair and reasonable time.

4. IDENTIFY 1) the obstacles you will need to overcome, 2) the help you will need to reach your goal. Write it all down.

5. Take all the details of steps 3 and 4 and make a PLAN. List all the pieces and put them in order. Review and revise as needed.

6. Visualize your goal clearly. Picture it completed. Imagine it all day long and dream it.

7. Be focused. Be persistent. Don't give up when obstacles seemingly get in the way. Use the obstacles as learning tools.

Let's take a bit closer look: Wow -- Reasons for a goal? Yep ... many, many reasons. Those reasons can even be broken down into smaller chunks. Think about your goal. Think about the reasons. WHY do you WANT this so badly? WHO will benefit? HOW will you get there? WHEN do you want to be there? WHERE can you get what you need to achieve this goal? The 5 "W's" ... and an "H".

The list above is a general list for *any* goal-setting. Personalize this to your equestrian activities. While you're at it, don't forget to think on the horse's level. Is your horse really READY for this goal? If not, how are you going to get about getting him to be ready? Each goal has to be chunked down into "mini-goals" ... each with its own structure, thus each big picture is made up of small pieces. Just like a jigsaw puzzle. Each piece has its rightful place where it will easily fit to help form the finished piece. This is the same with Equine goal setting. Regardless of what the goal is, teach yourself to examine each small piece and figure out where in the puzzle it fits. If you're not comfortable with horse "language" then you need to learn it before you can try to communicate your wishes to the horse. What *you* might deem a clear request might be nothing more than muck to the horse. This might be the primary goal right now - to learn more of how horses think and behave and to learn your horse's particular "language".

With any goal setting, there are always foundations that need to be put in place. Each foundational piece is a goal; a puzzle piece. If one piece is missed or forgotten then there will be a hole in the entire picture that spoils the finished piece. That one tiny piece may have a number of images on it that help to complete the larger image that goes in the entire puzzle. See what I'm getting at? Even in a "made" horse I can guarantee that there are holes that you need to personalize and fill in.

Each horse is an individual and each human is an individual. Each have different goals from one another. The horse's main goals are to go through life easily and comfortably. We could say the same ... but that's an unrealistic goal as life for both horses and humans is wrought with uncomfortable and difficult things. Horses do what is necessary to complete that picture, though. They eat, they sleep, they play, they breed, they run, they walk -- whatever the moment inspires them to do. When humans get into the picture, the horse is still going to try to do things the "easy" way for them ... the least frightening and least energy consuming. How can you, the human, make the goal you are setting fit in with the horse's goals?

Each training step we take, as horsemen, should be thought of as a goal with mini goals making up the entire picture. When we complete the entire picture, the work involved not only reaps the success with the horse, but I believe we reap success as a person, as well. We learn along the way WITH the horse ... only then are we able to go further along to the next goal; the next step, completing our life's goal of becoming a complete horseman.

Congratulations Meg and Co. on your purchase...

2009-03-31T01:42:00.004-04:00

of Leaguers Black Velvet. She is a daughter of Leaguers Black Magic, by Kay Cee Leaguer and is in foal to The Invester for a mid April foal. She is a well trained mare who will be the perfect pleasure partner for Megan and will halter with mom as well. It will be fun to get together for baby watch. Break out the popcorn, tents and toothpicks(for holding our eyes open)

A Very Warm Welcome To Our New Arrivals

2009-03-31T00:17:00.008-04:00

As I walked down the barn isle today,I realized that we have a barn full of wonderful horses. I also realized that we will have to add more stalls soon. We would like to welcome two new horses to our happy family, Louie and Velvet.
Chad and Katie purchased a halter gelding. JMK Fellas Kid (pictured above) is the newest addition to our 2009 show string. He is funded and has his ROM in Open, Amateur and Youth Halter. He has qualified for AQHA World Show and World Select Show and had a very successful showing at Congress last year. We are planning on heading to both Congress and Worlds with him this year. A few others on our string are pointed toward Congress and Worlds this year so we should have a few great "barn" road trips to look forward too.

Another Beautiful Day

2009-03-28T19:10:00.000-04:00

We have had a very productive end to our week. All of the horses worked outside and everyone was great. The chiropractor and acupuncturist came and worked on the horses that where in need of her services. It is amazing how much the horses enjoy being worked on and how well these services improve their movement and attitude. It is a testament to the importance to preventative care which is the key to maintaining our horses health and well being.

I also would like to thank Carolee and Co. for all of their help today, as I was busy running around taking care of something. They really helped me out and I want them to know that I appreciate everything that they do. I have to thank all of my students and their families for all that they do. Without them, I would loose my head and my manure fork:)

Developing and Maintaining Balance

2009-03-26T18:01:00.000-04:00

Relaxation and balance are the first two skills riders must develop as they work their way up the riding tree. Without relaxation, it is hard for a rider to stay balanced over the horse. Without good balance, it is hard for a rider to relax. As balance improves, riders develop greater confidence that they are not going to fall off. That mental confidence, in turn, helps minimize the gripping and tension that pushes riders out of the saddle and contributes to being “off balance.” Staying relaxed on the horse does not mean flopping around in the saddle with loose muscles. Balanced riders must develop a feel for where their body is positioned relative to the horse’s center of gravity. They also need to develop “muscle memory,” an unconscious tensing and releasing of the right muscles in just the right increments that enables them to maintain their equilibrium in motion at any gait or on any line they are riding without gripping with their legs or grabbing at the reins to stay on.

I use the following exercises to help my students develop the “muscle memory” they need to stay in balance with their horses.

Frog position. Riders draw their knees up to help them find the middle of the saddle and to stay there without gripping with their calves.

Dog position. Riders lift their thighs away from the saddle (like a dog lifting its leg) to help them find the center of the saddle without gripping with their thighs.

Up two, down one. Instead of normal up-down posting to the horse’s two-beat trot, riders stay up for two beats, sit for one beat, and keep repeating this pattern. This constantly changes the diagonal that the riders are on and prevents them from using the rhythmic thrust of either hind leg as a crutch to maintain their balance.

Riding without stirrups. Riders can work on this alone but they will achieve faster results if an instructor or knowledgeable riding partner puts their horse on a longe line so they can work without either stirrups or reins. Start at the walk (in both directions) and gradually work up to the trot and canter as balance improves..

I also recommend off-the-horse exercises. These exercises can be extremely helpful in developing balance and core strength. Many people cannot stand or jump on one foot or do a simple squat without losing their balance. Any exercise that helps them develop balance on the ground will carry over into their work on the horse’s back.

Squats are a good balance exercise. Riders can start against a wall at first and move away as their strength builds. Eventually, they can work up to a one-legged squat with the other leg extended out in front of them. Trampoline work is also great for balance. Riders can cross train in any of the martial arts, yoga, ice skating, roller blading or any other exercise program or sport that challenges their core strength and balance.

Note: image courtesy of Horse Artist - Iwona Jankowski

Feel the Burn - Riding without stirrups

2009-03-26T17:41:00.000-04:00

My work with equitation students often includes some time without stirrups. The key to good work without stirrups is to try to maintain your leg in the same position as when you are riding with stirrups. This work also develops muscle memory and reminds you to keep a connection through your whole leg. If the work without stirrups is going to be more than just a couple of minutes, cross your stirrups over the withers to prevent banging the horse's sides.

To begin work without stirrups, stretch your leg down while your horse is standing still and point your toe at the ground while you feel your crotch and your seatbones connecting with the saddle. Wrap your whole leg around your horse, then position your leg by first lifting your toe up until your ankle is angled as if your toe were in the stirrup. Next, draw your knee up without pinching so that your whole leg stays connected.

Posting Trot
When posting without stirrups, keep your leg in position and let your horse's movement push you out of the saddle, then use your leg to push yourself a little more. This will involve a lot of your thigh muscle because you need to close your hip angle somewhat and post "toward the horse's ears" as the old horsemen say--and you also need the control to avoid bouncing back down into the saddle too soon.

When working without stirrups, build up the time gradually. It's a matter of pushing yourself, but not pushing so hard that you end up balancing on the reins. If you push too hard you may also end up working the incorrect muscles.

Signs that you need to take a break: You find yourself grabbing your horse in the mouth to keep your balance, you have trouble controlling your posting or you have difficulty keeping your seat secure and feel as if you might slip off. Stop for the day and a few more minutes without stirrups tomorrow.

Improving leg position, strength and feel

2009-03-26T16:58:00.000-04:00

With show season almost upon us, I felt like it was imperative to discuss the development of proper and effective leg position as well as the development of feel. As a riding instructor, one of the most difficult things to teach a rider is to feel the horse. This feel is what makes great riders great. Development of feel is a lifelong learning journey.
For beginner riders, the development of feel is a concept that should not be overlooked, however riders should embrace the concept and understand that it will not come in one day. I always remind my students that the reason it is so difficult is because as you are learning to ride, your legs are not where they should be, softly on the side of the horse. It's quite natural and common to have to learn to develop correct leg position, as it would be unnatural to automatically have perfect leg position when you are learning to ride.
When developing or working on your feel, you first have to be able to feel your horse. If your legs are away from the horse's sides, you won't feel it when he takes a step. The horse will actually have to walk into your leg before you feel him.

Outlined below is an exercise to help develop and test your feel:

Take your feet out of the stirrups or ride bareback.
Keep your heels down with your toes pointed slightly out.
Wrap your legs around your horse with your entire leg all the way down to your heel (depending on the length of your leg, some tall riders legs may extend past the horse's sides and won't be able to keep the heel next to the horse) while maintaining complete contact with your horse's sides.
Hold your legs in that position and focus on feeling each step the horse takes.
Work on this exercise frequently to help keep your position and feel in check.

There are of course times that your leg will be away from your horse's sides, but if you never put your leg next to your horse's side you won't be able to feel him. Remember, It's impossible to feel what you don't touch.

Also...All my equitation students please note, next week we will focus on no stirrup work, bring Tylenol(TM).:)

What a Beautiful Day

2009-03-25T21:45:00.000-04:00

It was sunny and spring-like...finally:) The horses all worked outside today, and everyone went well. They all enjoyed the sunshine. The deer and turkeys seemed to enjoy the day too and hung out in the field for most of the day, watching us. It was great to hear all the birds. Spring is my favorite time of the year.
On another note, one of our huntseat students really stepped it up today. She and her horse are going to be killer on the circuit this year. He jumps very cute and she is really figuring him out. Watch out world, here they come. I also have to say that one of the new pleasure riders had a beautiful ride on her mare today. They are a new team as well, or a reasonably new team and they are really getting it together.
We have a great team this year, they give their all, and have a true passion. It is wonderful to see all the kids build solid, loving relationships with their horses. I also have to say, we have quite the awesome group of parents, supportive and as open to learning as their kids are. Many are even getting the itch to ride, I feel a trail ride coming on. Hope this weekend is nice!

My Teaching Philosophy

2009-03-24T16:21:00.000-04:00

Today someone asked me why I love to teach people to ride so much, despite the long hours and hard manual labor that goes with it.... I told her it was because it gave me a sense of satisfaction that no other activity (except riding myself) or profession ever rivaled.

Teaching horses and riders is not a job for everyone, but it is a job that I love more than anything else. As a child whose life was saved by having horses in it, I have always recognized the power of using the Horse as a teaching tool of character building life lessons.

During the years that I studied riding under several different instructors, I was fortunate enough to meet one that focused on the character building life lessons that are always present when we work with horses.

Like all coaches, this instructor recognized that if she could teach me how to learn, she could give me the world - and she did. I learned that everything I did on a horse could, and did correlate to everything I did in other areas of my life. For example; the same courage required of me to jump my first four foot fence was the same courage it took for me to step off the high dive at the lake for the first time or to speak in public for the first time or to go to the dentist or to fly for the first time. The principals for success over the fence were the same principals of success in all the other areas of my life as well. Those principals included:

Making the situation as safe as possible,
Doing everything you could to be as prepared as you could be for the challenge ahead of you.
Breaking the event down into its smaller parts and train on each of those either mentally, physically or both to ensure you were ready,
Respecting your fear and focusing on working through those fears
AND, when all of that was done...jumping the fence in front of you!

I spent my childhoos and much of my early adult life hanging out at the barn from sun-up to sun-down studying every instructor who was working there. I would watch and listen to all of their lessons (Western, English, Dressage and Jumping) and try to understand why they asked their students to do certain things. Sometimes, I would try to teach the lesson at the same time in my head and see if what I would have asked the student to adjust or change matched what the instructor actually did. This was my first clue that my future would be as a riding instructor.

As a riding instructor, I am completely responsible for the safety and welfare of my horse and rider - if I can't accept that responsibility, I shouldn't be teaching,
My job is to create a safe environment in which learning can happen, while keeping things FUN!,
Keeping a keen eye on both the horse and the rider. A good instructor is not only watching the rider at all times and anticipating their needs but is also riding the horse from the ground and anticipating the horse's next 10 moves. In other words, teaching is a thinking man's sport and in order to do it well, it requires you be on your "A" game every time you enter the arena. Like all great coaches, there is the best and then there are all the rest.
Success is a building block exercise in which you build one brick at a time. There are no short-cuts to a sound building that will stand for a lifetime. On the horse this means you focus on teaching the fundamentals of safe, responsible, defensive riding and make sure the rider is well equipped to handle anything that comes up and then you start to add one new skill at a time to that bag of tricks. By doing this, you arm the student with all the skills they will need in order to enjoy a safe, responsible riding experience for the rest of their lives, no matter what style of riding or breed of horse they select.
As a riding instructor, it is my responsibility to make sure my rider full understands what I am asking of them and if they don't, it is my job to find a metaphor that will help them make the connection. This requires intelligence, patience and communication skills,
Yelling at a student is a direct reflection of the instructor's inability to communicate effectively and it is not acceptable,
Diversity is a good thing. As a riding instructor, the more riding styles and different breeds of horse I can expose my students to, the more they will recognize the similarities, and that is a good thing.

If you notice, my teaching philosophy focuses on building character and on teaching life lessons that not only apply to riding but also apply to life. I don't believe it is nearly enough to teach someone where the buttons are on a horse. Teaching someone how to make a horse walk, trot or canter is not nearly good enough. The opportunity to bring a horse and rider together in an environment in which you can teach not just how to ride but how to live your life fully and completely is a powerful gift. A gift that I am truly thankful for.

Our Favorite Links

2009-03-24T15:53:00.000-04:00

LA Quarter Horse Farm

5 Star Saddle Club

NPHA

USEF

AQHA

PQHA

Our NPHA Horse Show Schedule

2009-03-24T14:49:00.001-04:00

The dates for our 2009 NPHA Rated Horse Shows are as follows:

English:
July 5, 2009
August 2, 2009
August 30, 2009

Western:
July 5, 2009
July 12, 2009 - Double Point
August 2, 2009
August 30, 2009

Welcome to LA Quarter Horse Farms Blog

2009-03-24T14:44:00.000-04:00

Hi everyone,
Welcome to LA Quarter Horse Farm Blog.